A Grappa Introduction

by Forrest Foster

Within our bar there are a wide range of liquors that each have their own very special and unique characteristics.

I am personally very fond of one in particular - Grappa. Grappa is a spirit made from the distillation of vinaccia, more commonly known as pomace. These are the remnants of wine making, the shed skins, cocoons of wine. Why not pay your regards to the body of wine?

This vinaccia is distilled in a bain-marie, where the pomace, whole, is distilled. Typically this is done twice, in a standard alembic pot still, but this can be done in a continuous still as well. After the distillation, grappa can be either bottled clear, without aging in oak, or in wooden barrels. These barrels are typically oak, but there is no control or prescriptive law to make this consistent.

The difference in oak aging and not is one significant difference in the style of a grappa, also is the use of white wine grape pomace and red wine grape pomace. I will first describe the style of white wine grappas, and then red wine, ending with the wood influenced grappa.


 

Aromatic

The distinctive characteristics of white skinned grape grappas, or as I prefer to call them “aromatic” grappas are clear. Because white grapes are only rarely fermented on the skins and etc of grapes, the pomace is not a wine and must be fermented before the distillation. This extracts fewer tannic compounds and phenolics due to the lower availability in the white skinned grapes.This means the end distillate is much more delicate and aromatic than a “strong” grappa. You’ll find the more floral characteristic of Moscato apparent, citrus zest and a brighter fruit component in general. The alcohol can still be strong, but typically these grappas are appreciated more for their lightness of texture and flavour than their potency. I always recommend a first time grappa drink to have a Moscato grappa, these are common and always very distinct. Bertagnolli’s Grappa di Moscato is an excellent starting point.

Strong

On the other hand, “strong” grappas have been distilled from the pomace of red wines, where alcoholic fermentation has occured while the skins are still in contact with the fermentable juices. This lends a much greater degree of potency, where the tannin and other chemicals are a component of the final distillate. These grappas are typically more noticeably alcoholic and carry an intensity of flavour and texture that defines what many people think of grappa to be. These can be harsh and crude liquors that serve only to be drunk as quickly as possible to aid the digestion; or, when more time is put into the distillation, an extremely expressive spirit with many focused aromatics and flavours. You’ll find the fruit to be typically richer, more raisined, dried, and savory, even briny aromas will emerge. Most people have had negative experiences with strong grappa, as many are single note unpleasantly bitter/alcoholic/raisin like beverages. Of all the grappas, these are the most acquired taste. I personally love the brightness of the 100% Sangiovese grappa produced by Castellare, a great introduction to this style.

Wood - Influenced

The final catagory of grappa that I have denoted “wood influenced” are very unique and not what most would consider “classic.” The production of this style of grappa is a very modern invention, some say as late as 1979. A wood influenced grappa can be made from either white or red grapes, distilled and then aged in wooden barrels for a time determined by the producer before bottling. This will always lend a dark colour to the spirit, where the phenolic compounds are extracted from the wood. You will find that these spirits are the richest of the three, the most mouth filling and dense. The fruit will give way to the classic characteristics of the wood they have lived in, typically you’ll find vanilla and toffee, coffee bean or pinebox immediately on the nose. Some of these spirits can be consumed like a brandy, savoured slowly at the end of a meal.

The greatest aged grappa I’ve enjoyed is Marolo’s 12 year aged Barolo grappa - a magnificently rich spirit whose 50% alcohol content is barely enough to balance the intensity of its oak aging.




If you’re interested further, you’ll find I’ve begun developing flights of grappa to be enjoyed after dinner at Altura. You’ll be able to compare and contrast all of the different styles of grappa, and I’m always excited to have an interested party to listen and share with. Our grappa selection is something I am always hunting out new bottles for, so check back for my future profiles of some of the rarer grappas.